Goecha La Trek - 2015
Trek Mongers team: Biswarup, Sambo, Tirtha, Indra, Sandipan Da, Biswajit & Ajay.
Support: Manilal Lepcha(Guide-9609167481), Bimal Daju(Yak/Dzo man), Padam(Porter)
Quaky start:
25th April 2015:
A memorable day. Our luggage all packed. I was
seating on my bed & cleaning my camera. Suddenly I felt dizzy! No, wait a minute.. the door is moving.. ohh..
it’s an earth QUAKE!! After it stopped, everything became normal after a while.
BUT! a new quake started inside my mind! Today we are going to catch our train
to NJP and on 27th we are going to start our trek to Goecha La.
God knows what
happen there after this Quake! Immediately I dialed Manilal’s mobile (our guide
for this trek). He is saying nothing happen here Sir, you people come without
any hesitation! No problem at all!? That’s sound a bit confusing! However after
some tug of war with relatives/friends who were concerned about our safety
& loads of phone calls, we finally catch our train to NJP.
26th April 2015,
Reached to NJP in the morning. After loading our luggage on cab,
started our Tata Sumo journey to Yuksom/Yuksam. We are team of 7, Sambo, Tirtha,
Indra, Sandipan da, Biswajit, Ajay & me- Biswarup. Sandipan Da was worried
about his old shoe, so we have to stop in Siliguri Bata to buy a good quality
trekking shoe. It was around 12:15pm. 4 member of us waiting inside the
vehicle. Someone is jumping inside our Sumo! I checked in back seat, oh no.. no
one is jumping or pushing the car man! It is Earth QUAKE once again!! People
screaming on the road in panic! Electric wires waving like snake. A part of an
old building collapsed in front of our eyes! I called Sandipan Da & others
from the shop & tell the driver to start before the traffic gets worst
condition! Finally we started for Yuksom. On the way, we have some food at
Jorthang. After a long day, we reached Yuksom & it’s already dark. Manilal
arranged our rooms in Hotel Dragon. So we jumped in the rooms, take hot shower
& have our dinner. By this time we heard some bad news! Due to the Earth
Quake a Dzo (Yak-Cow cross breed used for carrying trekking stuffs) fell down
from neighboring mountain while returning from Goecha La! So the CM of Sikkim
closed the Trek route for Trekkers for next 2 days! That’s quite bad news for
us! Co-incidentally the CM was there at Yuksom at that time. We met Mr. Barap
Namgiyal, who was a closed one of the CM & the owner of our Hotel. He told
us that if we could manage to take special permission from the local Police
station for the trek, then we can move after the next day. We found a light of
hope!
On the way to Yuksom
Stopped for SBI ATM at Rabong La
27th April 2015:
At morning we headed for the local police station for permission.
The SI tell us to sign a bond that we are going for this trek on our own
responsibility & if anything happen, it is on our call. We signed the
letter & after submitting our ID copies & required papers, we headed
for a warm-up trek to Dubdi Monastery, just 2km uphill hike. There we witness
the beautiful prayer music & mantra chanting of the monks & students of
the Monastery. In the afternoon we visited Cathog Lake at Yuksom & buy raw vegetables, Kerosene & other stuffs for the next few days of our trek. In
evening at Gupta’s restaurant, we felt another lite jerk at 6pm. We had enough,
what ever is in fate.. we have our dinner & catch a good night sleep.
Tomorrow need lot of energy!
Dubdi Monastery, Yuksam
Dubdi Monastery
Dubdi Monastery
Kathog Lake, Yuksam
Kathog Lake panorama
Kathog Lake panorama
28th April:
We woke up early in the morning.
After having breakfast, load our sacks on our back, ration & other
things on Dzo & say Good bye to hotel Dragon. Started walking through the
village. The weather is clear today. We start with full
of energy. Today our destination is Bakhim. After crossing the village line
& entering the jungle, we reached that spot from where a Dzo was fallen in
the river gorge 3 days ago during the earth quake! We move fast from that path,
because rock wall falling frequently from above. After a while, we reached the
gate of the 'Khangchendzonga National
Park'. There we saw the HMI group returning from Choungrikiang without
completing the training because of the earthquake! That was quite embarrassing!
However, we move ahead to our destination & hoping that no more quaky
situation waiting for us ahead. The path is under canopy of age old giant trees
make the place beyond recognize if it is sunny day or evening time. We move
through the beautiful path uphill. After crossing a suspension bridge on 'Pha Khola' we have to unpack the Poncho
from our sack top as the drizzling starts. Sachen is not far away now. So we
pick up our speed & reach Sachen
trekkers hut & take shelter for a few minutes. Shambo forgot his poncho in
the sack which is with a Dzo.. :).. so he almost drenched & squeeze his
T-Shirt. We wait there for the porter to come because we were planning to make
some Maggie over there & then move further. But no trace of the porter!
Then we saw our guide Manilal coming. We asked where are the 2 porters gone? He
said they need time to come & we should move forward! So we move with a
5-Star & some dry fruits instead Maggie. However the story of the porter
was something else, I'll will mention it later.
After leaving Sachen we cross a 2nd suspension bridge
on 'Prek Chu' river & a few small
concrete bridges . The path gradually go uphill. We move on a medium pace.
After some time the weather changed drastically & it's a total whiteout. It
is the cloud came on out trail & starts heavy raining. The poncho can't do
its job because we are moving through the cloud & I fell that my T-shirt
& bottom wear is not dry anymore. However, we keep moving forward &
soon reach to Bakhim trekkers hut. Bimal Daju, our Dzo man reached there almost
the same time. He satrted unload the belongings from the Dzos. Vapor coming out
from the body of those animals. The rain stop at Bakhim & the weather
became a little clear now. We changed our wet cloths & try to dry them in
the heat of the wooden oven. Have some coffee & come out from the hut to
see the view. We go to see the Government Trekkers Hut at Bakhim which is
partially damaged in 2011 earthquake & declared abandoned. We spent a
night in 2009 at that hut. However, nothing much happen that day. After having
a good dinner, we grabbed our sleeping bags.
Starting our trek in front of Hotel Dragon, Yuksom
At Yuksom
At the gate of Khangchendzonga National Park
Towards Sachen
Rhododendron
Bakhim (2743 Mtr)
Bakhim Tea shop/Trekkers shelter
View from Bakhim
29th April:
It is fresh in the morning. The weather is awesome today. Our clothes
are dry again. After having breakfast we pack our stuffs we starts our trek to
uphill. We starts early. Today our destination is Dzongri. The trail is uphill
now & it's the most difficult & strenuous day compared to the other
days in this trek.
After some time
we reached to Tshoka. In 2009 this village was full of people. But this time we found all the houses are empty. The
village is inside the National Park now, so living there is not allowed. So the
government move them near Yuksome now. This is a good initiative. Although
there is a small shop there which you can call a little supermarket too. You
can buy anything you need on the trek from there :). However we just drink
Coffee from there & see a giant Mushroom on which the Goecha La trek route
drawn. After some time we moved from Tshoka & starts climbing uphill.
Deorali Top (4100
Mtr) is a bit heigher than Dzongri top and this is the most tough ascending
among this total route to Goecha la. It was snowing while we climbing that
stretch. However, after Deorali top, the trail is not so hard and we reached
Dzongri at about 4pm. After reaching Dzongri we come to know that all rooms are
booked by a trekking agency. So we decide to sleep in the dining hall of the
trekkers hut. Ajay not feeling well & growing a tendency for vomiting. So
we decide to atsy at Dzongri for the next day too. In that evening Manilal
bring 'Murimakha' for us. After a long day we have our dinner & crushed.
Tshoka village (3400 Mtr)
Dzongri (3950 Mtr)
30th April: Rest Day
As i
told, today is our rest day. We had a walk to Dzongri top. Due to yesterdays snowfall, outside is covered with snow. We spent our time by walking near areas
& play cards. In the evening Manilal made us Tibetan Momo with potato
curry. It was delicious. I gave medicine to Ajay & he is feeling well
today.
Towards Dzongri top
Tibetan Momo
1st May:
Today
we start early. Our destination is Thansing. Leaving Dzongri, we ascend to
cross beside Dzongri La. Most of the
route is kind of meadow & very pleasant to walk. We saw plenty of
Rhododendron at that area. After Dzongri La, we need to descend a long stretch
to reach Kukchurung. Prek Chu (Chu means river) flowing beside Kukchurung
trekkers hut. We had our lunch here. After a little rest we start moving
upwards to reach Thansing. The weather still bad today. Visibility is under
10-15 Ft. When we reach near Thansing, it starts raining with snowfall. We
arrived in the trekkers hut just in time to take cover from that heavy rain. In
the afternoon we had some hot tea with biscuits. At early evening we enjoy 'Tumba'
beside the hut kitchen. We sleep early that night because we have to wake up
early to visit Thansing top to see the sunrise. Eventually Sambo call me at
2:50am & tell me to came outside. I come out from the sleeping bag. It was
bone chilling cold weather. But the sky is crystal clear and first time in my
life I saw 'The Milky Way Galaxy' through my eyes. I can't explain the moment by writing. It was like the view make my soul in full bloom.
From Dzongri towards Dzongri La
Dzongri La
Manilal at Dzongri La
Dzongri La
Dzongri La
Dzongri La
Dzongri La
Dzongri La
Dzongri La
Kukchurung (3650 Mtr)
Kukchurung
Kukchurung
Kukchurung
Prek Chu
Inside Thansing Trekkers hut
We at Thansing kitchen hut
Sipping Tumba
2nd May:
After experiencing the night sky view, I again enter in the sleeping bag & wake up at 4am. At 5am we reached Thansing top. We saw Mt. Pandim & Mt. Khangchendzongha bathing in the first golden sun light. We took plenty of photos from there & descend from there. Today the weather is sunny & bright. After having hot tea & breakfast we start to move towards Lamuney, our destination for today. The route from Thansing to Lamuney is very easy. The only issue is thin air (low level of oxygen). Now we are in alpine zone. No trees are there in this area. Only 'Dhupi' bushes are here. Within one hour we reached Lamuney camp site. Lamuney is the last camping sight in Goecha La trekking route. A stone hut & wooden toilet made for campers in that site. Because we reach so early, we got plenty of time to roam around the camp site. It was very windy. We set our tents (have to struggle with the wind) and had a walk. We sighted a flock of Himalayan Ibex or 'Ban Vera' in a slope of the mountain. They are the best climbers i think! A dog was with us & that dog chase those Ibex and they crawl up in the mountain like spiders! In the meantime the weather strats changing its mood. Again heavy snowing stats and soon everything covered in white powder of snow. At 7:30 we had our dinner & enter in the tent for early sleep. Have to start our trek too early in the dark.
Thansing (3931 Mtr)
Mt. Pandim from Thansing top
Mt. Khangchendzongha from Thansing top
Mt. Pandim peak
Thansing trekkers hut
Thansing
Thansing camping ground
Towards Lamuney
Thansing Lamuney trail
Lamuney (4602 Mtr)
Lamuney camping ground
Lamuney camping ground
Our goods carrying Dzos
Himalayan Ibex/Banvera
Himalayan Ibex/Banvera
Mt. Pandim peak from Lamuney
Friend of the trail
3rd May:
Woke up at 00:00
hour. Have to start the trek within 1am. When I come out from the tent, I was
mesmerized! It was a Full Moon night. All the mountains & valley was
lighted and glowing in the silver colored light! We get ready with everything
& we start our night trek towards Goecha La top. We even see the trail
clearly without even our headlamp because of the full Moon! I take a few night
landscape shots during that time. At 2:15am we reached at Samiti Lake. In the
past Samiti Lake was the last camping ground for Goecha La trekkers. But now it
is not allowed anymore. Good for the environment though.
Gaining height &
high altitude symptoms starts showing me its drama. Heavy headache starts
occurring. So I start to slow down like a tortoise. I move my legs very slowly,
maybe 1 step in 2-3 seconds. Because we start so early, we have plenty of time
in my hand to reach to the top. At around 3:45am all of us reached Goecha La
top (first view point). It's still dark of course & tremendous chilling
cold. Water freeze in Sambo's water bladder pipe! I set my camera in the tripod
& waiting for that special moment. Suddenly I notice thin lair of ice
formed on my SLR flip Flash due to breathing vapor from my nose! Holy smoke!!
However, the sun rays starts to fall on the mountain ranges at near about
4:50am. Wow, it is just breath taking. Redish orange, golden, yellow, lite
yellow every colour brushed through the mountain tops. We all realize how small
we are compared to the mountains & nature. The theater of almighty have its
own showtime and the price of the ticket is not money, but it is the urge to
be there crossing all the difficulties of the hard trails!
Due to Earth quake the trail was damaged after so called Goecha La view point 1. We tried to move forward, but it was not possible due to very badly collapsed trail. It makes a sheer drop & without rope it will be too risky for us. So we have to back off to go to Goecha La Lake & literally step on the 'V' shaped Goecha Pass. However sometimes it is OK to enjoy what you got in your hands! :) It could be worst & it was very close to cancel our trek in the very beginning from Yuksam because of the Earth Quake! We saw many teams go back from even Thansing in our route due to that Quake. After all the hardship, we make it to come that close to Khanchendzungha & Pandim & see magnificent view of Goecha La.
Due to Earth quake the trail was damaged after so called Goecha La view point 1. We tried to move forward, but it was not possible due to very badly collapsed trail. It makes a sheer drop & without rope it will be too risky for us. So we have to back off to go to Goecha La Lake & literally step on the 'V' shaped Goecha Pass. However sometimes it is OK to enjoy what you got in your hands! :) It could be worst & it was very close to cancel our trek in the very beginning from Yuksam because of the Earth Quake! We saw many teams go back from even Thansing in our route due to that Quake. After all the hardship, we make it to come that close to Khanchendzungha & Pandim & see magnificent view of Goecha La.
After spending some time
there it is time to back to our camp. In the daylight we understand how
dangerous the trail to Goecha La top was. See the beautiful & Holy Samiti
lake in daylight too. We have to return and stay at Kukchurung today. So we
came back to Thansing camp & take some rest. After having our breakfast we
pack tents & everything & stars our journey towards Kukchurung.
Night landscape of Mt. Pandim from Lamuney
First ray of sunlight on Mt. Khangchendzonga from Goecha La top
At Goecha La top (4940 Mtr)
Returning from Goecha La top
Samiti Lake in day light
Mount Khanchendzungha
Mount Khanchendzungha
Me at Lamuney camp
4th May:
Yesterday we arrived
Kukchurung in the afternoon. Here we meet Sanman Subba, the Chowkidar of this
trekkers hut. We spent a relaxing day here & enjoyed the awesome place with
mountains, jungles & Prek Chu(river).
San Man Subba (Thunga Maila Mama) at Kukchurung trekkers hut
Kukchurung trekkers hut
5th May:
Today is the last
day of our Goecha La trek. We are
returning back to Yuksam. Our hearts are heavy for leaving the beautiful nature
behind, but we are happy that we are taking with us an unparalleled unmatched
surrealistic memory in within us for the lifetime. We will come to meet you
again and again beautiful mountains, because you are here!
Returning towards Yuksam
Manilal Lepcha (guide)
Bimal Daju (Yak/Dzo man)
"Om Maani Padme
Humm"
Respected reader,
Thank you for reading
my travel blog.
Please visit again
for more travel stories and please share.
Love nature.. Protect Nature..
Biswarup (Wonderlust).
You can watch the trek videos in 3 parts on Youtube by clicking on the given links below:
Part - 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaw07EyQbk0
Part - 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BB8KVsVuPIw
Part - 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MW1_Ds4oCsc&t=254s
THANK YOU