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Goecha La Trek - 2015 

Trek Mongers team: Biswarup, Sambo, Tirtha, Indra, Sandipan Da, Biswajit & Ajay.

Support: Manilal Lepcha(Guide-9609167481), Bimal Daju(Yak/Dzo man), Padam(Porter)

Quaky start:

25^th April 2015:

A memorable day. Our luggage all packed. I was seating on my bed & cleaning my camera. Suddenly I felt dizzy! No, wait a minute.. the door is moving.. ohh.. it’s an earth QUAKE!! After it stopped, everything became normal after a while. BUT! a new quake started inside my mind! Today we are going to catch our train to NJP and on 27^th we are going to start our trek to Goecha La.

God knows what happen there after this Quake! Immediately I dialed Manilal’s mobile (our guide for this trek). He is saying nothing happen here Sir, you people come without any hesitation! No problem at all!? That’s sound a bit confusing! However after some tug of war with relatives/friends who were concerned about our safety & loads of phone calls, we finally catch our train to NJP.

26^th April 2015,

Reached to NJP in the morning. After loading our luggage on cab, started our Tata Sumo journey to Yuksom/Yuksam. We are team of 7, Sambo, Tirtha, Indra, Sandipan da, Biswajit, Ajay & me- Biswarup. Sandipan Da was worried about his old shoe, so we have to stop in Siliguri Bata to buy a good quality trekking shoe. It was around 12:15pm. 4 member of us waiting inside the vehicle. Someone is jumping inside our Sumo! I checked in back seat, oh no.. no one is jumping or pushing the car man! It is Earth QUAKE once again!! People screaming on the road in panic! Electric wires waving like snake. A part of an old building collapsed in front of our eyes! I called Sandipan Da & others from the shop & tell the driver to start before the traffic gets worst condition! Finally we started for Yuksom. On the way, we have some food at Jorthang. After a long day, we reached Yuksom & it’s already dark. Manilal arranged our rooms in Hotel Dragon. So we jumped in the rooms, take hot shower & have our dinner. By this time we heard some bad news! Due to the Earth Quake a Dzo (Yak-Cow cross breed used for carrying trekking stuffs) fell down from neighboring mountain while returning from Goecha La! So the CM of Sikkim closed the Trek route for Trekkers for next 2 days! That’s quite bad news for us! Co-incidentally the CM was there at Yuksom at that time. We met Mr. Barap Namgiyal, who was a closed one of the CM & the owner of our Hotel. He told us that if we could manage to take special permission from the local Police station for the trek, then we can move after the next day. We found a light of hope!

On the way to Yuksom

Stopped for SBI ATM at Rabong La

27^th April 2015:

At morning we headed for the local police station for permission. The SI tell us to sign a bond that we are going for this trek on our own responsibility & if anything happen, it is on our call. We signed the letter & after submitting our ID copies & required papers, we headed for a warm-up trek to Dubdi Monastery, just 2km uphill hike. There we witness the beautiful prayer music & mantra chanting of the monks & students of the Monastery. In the afternoon we visited Cathog Lake at Yuksom & buy raw vegetables, Kerosene & other stuffs for the next few days of our trek. In evening at Gupta’s restaurant, we felt another lite jerk at 6pm. We had enough, what ever is in fate.. we have our dinner & catch a good night sleep. Tomorrow need lot of energy!

Dubdi Monastery, Yuksam

Dubdi Monastery

Dubdi Monastery

Kathog Lake, Yuksam

Kathog Lake panorama

Kathog Lake panorama

28^th April:

We woke up early in the morning.  After having breakfast, load our sacks on our back, ration & other things on Dzo & say Good bye to hotel Dragon. Started walking through the village. The weather is clear today. We start with full of energy. Today our destination is Bakhim. After crossing the village line & entering the jungle, we reached that spot from where a Dzo was fallen in the river gorge 3 days ago during the earth quake! We move fast from that path, because rock wall falling frequently from above. After a while, we reached the gate of the 'Khangchendzonga National Park'. There we saw the HMI group returning from Choungrikiang without completing the training because of the earthquake! That was quite embarrassing! However, we move ahead to our destination & hoping that no more quaky situation waiting for us ahead. The path is under canopy of age old giant trees make the place beyond recognize if it is sunny day or evening time. We move through the beautiful path uphill. After crossing a suspension bridge on 'Pha Khola' we have to unpack the Poncho from our sack top as the drizzling starts. Sachen is not far away now. So we pick up our speed & reach Sachen trekkers hut & take shelter for a few minutes. Shambo forgot his poncho in the sack which is with a Dzo.. :).. so he almost drenched & squeeze his T-Shirt. We wait there for the porter to come because we were planning to make some Maggie over there & then move further. But no trace of the porter! Then we saw our guide Manilal coming. We asked where are the 2 porters gone? He said they need time to come & we should move forward! So we move with a 5-Star & some dry fruits instead Maggie. However the story of the porter was something else, I'll will mention it later.

After leaving Sachen we cross a 2nd suspension bridge on 'Prek Chu' river & a few small concrete bridges . The path gradually go uphill. We move on a medium pace. After some time the weather changed drastically & it's a total whiteout. It is the cloud came on out trail & starts heavy raining. The poncho can't do its job because we are moving through the cloud & I fell that my T-shirt & bottom wear is not dry anymore. However, we keep moving forward & soon reach to Bakhim trekkers hut. Bimal Daju, our Dzo man reached there almost the same time. He satrted unload the belongings from the Dzos. Vapor coming out from the body of those animals. The rain stop at Bakhim & the weather became a little clear now. We changed our wet cloths & try to dry them in the heat of the wooden oven. Have some coffee & come out from the hut to see the view. We go to see the Government Trekkers Hut at Bakhim which is partially damaged in 2011 earthquake & declared abandoned. We spent a night in 2009 at that hut. However, nothing much happen that day. After having a good dinner, we grabbed our sleeping bags.

Starting our trek in front of Hotel Dragon, Yuksom

 At Yuksom

At the gate of Khangchendzonga National Park

 Towards Sachen

Rhododendron 

 Bakhim (2743 Mtr)

 Bakhim Tea shop/Trekkers shelter

View from Bakhim 

Bakhim Tea shop/Trekkers shelter

Our team at Bakhim

29^th April:

It is fresh in the morning. The weather is awesome today. Our clothes are dry again. After having breakfast we pack our stuffs we starts our trek to uphill. We starts early. Today our destination is Dzongri. The trail is uphill now & it's the most difficult & strenuous day compared to the other days in this trek.

After some time we reached to Tshoka. In 2009 this village was full of people. But this time we found all the houses are empty. The village is inside the National Park now, so living there is not allowed. So the government move them near Yuksome now. This is a good initiative. Although there is a small shop there which you can call a little supermarket too. You can buy anything you need on the trek from there :). However we just drink Coffee from there & see a giant Mushroom on which the Goecha La trek route drawn. After some time we moved from Tshoka & starts climbing uphill.

Deorali Top (4100 Mtr) is a bit heigher than Dzongri top and this is the most tough ascending among this total route to Goecha la. It was snowing while we climbing that stretch. However, after Deorali top, the trail is not so hard and we reached Dzongri at about 4pm. After reaching Dzongri we come to know that all rooms are booked by a trekking agency. So we decide to sleep in the dining hall of the trekkers hut. Ajay not feeling well & growing a tendency for vomiting. So we decide to atsy at Dzongri for the next day too. In that evening Manilal bring 'Murimakha' for us. After a long day we have our dinner & crushed.

 Tshoka village (3400 Mtr)

 Tshoka village

 Dzongri (3950 Mtr)

Dzongri

30th April: Rest Day

As i told, today is our rest day. We had a walk to Dzongri top. Due to yesterdays snowfall, outside is covered with snow. We spent our time by walking near areas & play cards. In the evening Manilal made us Tibetan Momo with potato curry. It was delicious. I gave medicine to Ajay & he is feeling well today.

 Towards Dzongri top

 Tibetan Momo

Playing cards in Dzongri trekkers hut

1st May:

Today we start early. Our destination is Thansing. Leaving Dzongri, we ascend to cross beside  Dzongri La. Most of the route is kind of meadow & very pleasant to walk. We saw plenty of Rhododendron at that area. After Dzongri La, we need to descend a long stretch to reach Kukchurung. Prek Chu (Chu means river) flowing beside Kukchurung trekkers hut. We had our lunch here. After a little rest we start moving upwards to reach Thansing. The weather still bad today. Visibility is under 10-15 Ft. When we reach near Thansing, it starts raining with snowfall. We arrived in the trekkers hut just in time to take cover from that heavy rain. In the afternoon we had some hot tea with biscuits. At early evening we enjoy 'Tumba' beside the hut kitchen. We sleep early that night because we have to wake up early to visit Thansing top to see the sunrise. Eventually Sambo call me at 2:50am & tell me to came outside. I come out from the sleeping bag. It was bone chilling cold weather. But the sky is crystal clear and first time in my life I saw 'The Milky Way Galaxy' through my eyes. I can't explain the moment by writing. It was like the view make my soul in full bloom.

From Dzongri towards Dzongri La

Dzongri La 

Manilal at Dzongri La

Dzongri La 

Dzongri La 

 Dzongri La

 Dzongri La

Dzongri La 

Dzongri La 

Kukchurung (3650 Mtr)

Kukchurung

 Kukchurung

Kukchurung 

 Prek Chu

Inside Thansing Trekkers hut

We at Thansing kitchen hut

Sipping Tumba

2nd May:

After experiencing the night sky view, I again enter in the sleeping bag & wake up at 4am. At 5am we reached Thansing top. We saw Mt. Pandim & Mt. Khangchendzongha bathing in the first golden sun light. We took plenty of photos from there & descend from there. Today the weather is sunny & bright. After having hot tea & breakfast we start to move towards Lamuney, our destination for today. The route from Thansing to Lamuney is very easy. The only issue is thin air (low level of oxygen). Now we are in alpine zone. No trees are there in this area. Only 'Dhupi' bushes are here. Within one hour we reached Lamuney camp site. Lamuney is the last camping sight in Goecha La trekking route. A stone hut & wooden toilet made for campers in that site. Because we reach so early, we got plenty of time to roam around the camp site. It was very windy. We set our tents (have to struggle with the wind) and had a walk. We sighted a flock of Himalayan Ibex or 'Ban Vera' in a slope of the mountain. They are the best climbers i think! A dog was with us & that dog chase those Ibex and they crawl up in the mountain like spiders! In the meantime the weather strats changing its mood. Again heavy snowing stats and soon everything covered in white powder of snow. At 7:30 we had our dinner & enter in the tent for early sleep. Have to start our trek too early in the dark.

Thansing (3931 Mtr)

Mt. Pandim from Thansing top

Mt. Khangchendzongha from Thansing top

Mt. Pandim peak

Thansing trekkers hut

Thansing

Thansing camping ground

Thansing 

Towards Lamuney

Thansing Lamuney trail

Thansing Lamuney trail

Me on Thansing Lamuney trail

Lamuney (4602 Mtr)

Lamuney camping ground

Lamuney camping ground

Our goods carrying Dzos

Himalayan Ibex/Banvera

Himalayan Ibex/Banvera

Mt. Pandim peak from Lamuney

Friend of the trail

Ibex aerobatics

3rd May:

Woke up at 00:00 hour. Have to start the trek within 1am. When I come out from the tent, I was mesmerized! It was a Full Moon night. All the mountains & valley was lighted and glowing in the silver colored light! We get ready with everything & we start our night trek towards Goecha La top. We even see the trail clearly without even our headlamp because of the full Moon! I take a few night landscape shots during that time. At 2:15am we reached at Samiti Lake. In the past Samiti Lake was the last camping ground for Goecha La trekkers. But now it is not allowed anymore. Good for the environment though.

Gaining height & high altitude symptoms starts showing me its drama. Heavy headache starts occurring. So I start to slow down like a tortoise. I move my legs very slowly, maybe 1 step in 2-3 seconds. Because we start so early, we have plenty of time in my hand to reach to the top. At around 3:45am all of us reached Goecha La top (first view point). It's still dark of course & tremendous chilling cold. Water freeze in Sambo's water bladder pipe! I set my camera in the tripod & waiting for that special moment. Suddenly I notice thin lair of ice formed on my SLR flip Flash due to breathing vapor from my nose! Holy smoke!! However, the sun rays starts to fall on the mountain ranges at near about 4:50am. Wow, it is just breath taking. Redish orange, golden, yellow, lite yellow every colour brushed through the mountain tops. We all realize how small we are compared to the mountains & nature. The theater of almighty have its own showtime and the price of the ticket is not money, but it is the urge to be there crossing all the difficulties of the hard trails!

Due to Earth quake the trail was damaged after so called Goecha La view point 1. We tried to move forward, but it was not possible due to very badly collapsed trail. It makes a sheer drop & without rope it will be too risky for us. So we have to back off to go to Goecha La Lake & literally step on the 'V' shaped Goecha Pass. However sometimes it is OK to enjoy what you got in your hands! :) It could be worst & it was very close to cancel our trek in the very beginning from Yuksam because of the Earth Quake! We saw many teams go back from even Thansing in our route due to that Quake. After all the hardship, we make it to come that close to Khanchendzungha & Pandim & see magnificent view of Goecha La.

After spending some time there it is time to back to our camp. In the daylight we understand how dangerous the trail to Goecha La top was. See the beautiful & Holy Samiti lake in daylight too. We have to return and stay at Kukchurung today. So we came back to Thansing camp & take some rest. After having our breakfast we pack tents & everything & stars our journey towards Kukchurung.

Night landscape of Mt. Pandim from Lamuney

Night landscape of Mt. Khangchendzongha & Mt. Pandim from Lamuney 

Night landscape of Samiti Lake

First ray of sunlight on Mt. Khangchendzonga from Goecha La top

At Goecha La top (4940 Mtr)

Our team at Goecha La top

Returning from Goecha La top 

Samiti Lake in day light

Mount Khanchendzungha

Mount Khanchendzungha

Me at Lamuney camp

4th May:

Yesterday we arrived Kukchurung in the afternoon. Here we meet Sanman Subba, the Chowkidar of this trekkers hut. We spent a relaxing day here & enjoyed the awesome place with mountains, jungles & Prek Chu(river).

San Man Subba (Thunga Maila Mama) at Kukchurung trekkers hut

Kukchurung trekkers hut

5th May:

Today is the last day  of our Goecha La trek. We are returning back to Yuksam. Our hearts are heavy for leaving the beautiful nature behind, but we are happy that we are taking with us an unparalleled unmatched surrealistic memory in within us for the lifetime. We will come to meet you again and again beautiful mountains, because you are here!

Returning towards Yuksam

 Manilal Lepcha (guide)

 Bimal Daju (Yak/Dzo man)

Padam (porter)

Our total pack.

"Om Maani Padme Humm"

Respected reader,

Thank you for reading my travel blog.

Please visit again for more travel stories and please share.

Love nature.. Protect Nature..

Biswarup (Wonderlust).

You can watch the trek videos in 3 parts on Youtube by clicking on the given links below:

Part - 1:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaw07EyQbk0

Part - 2:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BB8KVsVuPIw

Part - 3:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MW1_Ds4oCsc&t=254s

THANK YOU